It is often said that diamonds are a girl’s best friend however upon viewing the exhibit, JEWELS by Bert Stern, one is easily swayed to believe it is in fact the famed American fashion and celebrity portrait photographer himself (and his lens, of course) – over polished gems of any size or rarity – that would be a true priceless addition to any female’s cache.
Recognized for his unconventional techniques and multidisciplinary approaches in telling a story, Stern has been dubbed “the man who gives ideas an image”. Having built a career of epic proportions, even at nearly 82 years of age, Stern continues to push the boundaries and help redefine the subjects of his vast body of work. Through JEWELS Stern has reinvented some of his most iconic photographs. With the use of crystals and jewels overlaid on archival pigment print he proves that he not only knows what women want but he is on point in delivering what we females argue to be a simple wish list: to preserve our youth, to mollify our love of all things shiny, and to “get” us.
34 photographs starring some of the most beautiful and idolized women of our time – Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Twiggy alongside modern-day personalities such as Kate Moss and Lindsay Lohan – are frozen in time at their prime and iridescent with hand-applied jewels. The telling images inform viewers about these women more so then any article or interview.
The use of jewels are measured and placed strategically and with purpose. Viewing the images up-close and centre at the exhibit’s opening reception at Izzy Gallery in Yorkville, I saw the collection as a coronation of sorts; timeless beauties taking centre stage and commanding their place as symbols of a bygone era of glitz and glamour. The small and intimate space, teeming with the city’s well-heeled including Toronto’s own royalty – Jeanne Beker and Mark McEwan – were their admiring court.
The ultimate delight of the evening was having the opportunity to see and “meet” Mr. Stern himself. The reclusive artist who very rarely makes public appearances visited Canada for the first time after much encouragement from gallery owner, Izzy Sulejmani. A fan of Stern himself, Sulejmani compared the feat of securing Stern’s attendance as reaching the top of a mountain.
A man of few words, Stern did not agree to any interviews but that did not stop guests from surrounding him in stunned awe. Upon stepping into his 3-feet bubble – as brief as it was – to receive his autograph, I stumbled upon my own words of genuine gratitude.
Second to Stern’s magnetic pull was a never-before-seen image of Marilyn Monroe. Shot for VOGUE over 3 days in June 1962, only six weeks before her tragic death, the series of over 2,500 images have collectively come to be know asThe Last Sitting and are arguably the most famous, albeit, last images ever captured of America’s most famous actress.
Sulejmani shared with The Scene that he had asked Stern for years to do the piece, which now hangs in his gallery. Now complete, the photograph is resplendent. (Teaser: Sprawled nude across an unmade bed, the actress’ famous curves are highlighted in a luminous glow…and fireworks!)
Stern’s raw talent lies in his ability to capture the heartrending humanity of his subjects. Despite their celebrity he introduces to the world the real woman behind the mirage of fame. They are beautiful and confident but removed from the silver screen, they are also human. Vulnerable, filled with emotion, and flawed as indicated by the inclusion of an image of Monroe that was deemed unpublishable by the actress herself, x-ed in red marker.
Visit Izzy Gallery located at 106 Yorkville Avenue to view the JEWELS by Bert Stern exhibit.
