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From Neglected Glamour to Haute Couture
Indian Designer Jenjum Gadi talks about how grunge fashion went from the streets to the runway
Fashion is considered a swing between the extreme opposites, from maximalism to minimalism, it keeps changing. It majorly depends upon what’s trending at the moment and what might become a trend in the future. The same happened with Grunge Fashion, a style which was once considered “dirty” and “cheap” became a part of our ‘must have’ wardrobe items.
In today’s date, many Indian fashion designers have worked on collections inspired from music like Kunal Rawal for Lakme Fashion Week Winter/ Festive 2019 where his work showcased bits and pieces of rock and roll as well as grunge, tweaked to perfection and dominated by the colour black. Jenjum Gadi, a fashion designer, showcased his spring/ summer 2020 menswear collection at Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, giving a very rock n roll vibe with all black ensembles and heavy embellishments with few more androgynous pieces. According to him genres of the 90s like Grunge had “inspired the fashion industry then and with time, it will eventually keep changing and growing accordingly”. Bollywood actors like Ranveer Singh are potential customers for collections like these due to his unconventional choice of fashion.
An anti-fashion fashion movement and a successor to Punk fashion, Grunge was a result of evolution. Emerging from Seattle, it exploded in the 90s, thanks to Nirvana and the frustrated people from GenX. The music and lyrical content this genre had were different from its predecessors, as it wasn’t completely politically motivated and the music was about heavy drumming, dirty guitar riffs, and lots of screaming.
An escape for the angst-filled youth that was tired of feeling alienated and the failing economy, Grunge connected with them immediately. Just like its music, grunge fashion was anything but mainstream. Grunge was about celebrating individuality and imperfections. It stood for comfort clothing instead of a glam look, making oversized cardigans, logo t-shirts, flannel shirts, ripped jeans, and messy hair the ‘go- to’ look. Even though Grunge fashion was androgynous, the feminine grunge look was also popularised, thanks to Courtney Love, wife to Cobain, and vocalist to Hole, through slip dresses, combat boots, dark makeup, messy hair and accessories like chokers, deriving the term ‘neglected glamour’.
Grunge Fashion was not just limited to an unkempt approach as it opened doors for high fashion in the future. It not only popularised being comfortable but also the concept of vintage clothing, now termed as ‘thrifting’, supporting the entire persona of appearing ‘slept-in’. This style of fashion gained recognition in 1992 and was also fictionalised in Cameron Crowe’s movie Singles.
Grunge was introduced on the runway by Marc Jacobs’ collection for Perry Ellis in 1993. He decided to turn his eye to the up-and-coming Grunge scene, dressing-down his models and sending out Carla Bruni in Dr. Martens boots, Tyra Banks in Birkenstocks, Shalom Harlow in Converse All-Stars, and Kate Moss and Kristen McMenamy in tees with Robert Crumb graphics; something the fashion world would consider bizarre and a ‘fashion disaster’. It was one of his first collections but it went downhill as it caused a stir in the fashion world, eventually costing Jacobs his job. He was heavily criticised as this was a time when fashion was still catering to an audience of working women and people belonging to the upper class. In his defence, it was nothing but clothes inspired by the authenticity of the music world and how people around him were already dressing.
The Grunge scene was appalled by this to the point that even Courtney Love said that she had burned the pieces she had received from Jacobs. The only question was who would be willing to pay money for something they can get for a cheaper price at a thrift store down the street? But nobody saw that it was an early onset of the fashion and music world coming together, the impact of youth culture on these worlds, and the significance of fashion in today’s pop culture. In 2018, Marc Jacobs brought his collection back- with the approval from the Perry Ellis company- to celebrate its 25th anniversary. He reproduced 26 looks from his original collection, modelled by Gigi Hadid, Binx Walton, Slick Woods, Dree Hemingway, and more, but with a modern touch. These looks belong to the ‘Redux Collection’ were replicated in every detail but with a twisted approach to the high fashion found in his 1993 collection.
Jacobs’ work screams the ideologies of Grunge, being anything but mainstream, showing what we didn’t know we needed and giving us something to love for years to come. Now Fashion designers such as Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, and Anna Sui are incorporating grunge and retro elements in their collections, making grunge style one of the prime examples of the working of the bottom-up fashion trends.
Grunge has managed to revive itself through the youth that is still exploring the history of music and wearing flannels instead of showing interest in the current music scene. It was about acceptance, comfort, and self-expression; which led to the creation of the DIY movement where fashion trickled up from the streets to the runway, keeping its philosophy intact, something we still see today.
Teen-angst, but make it Fashion
Clothing as a form of self expression with musician Rijul Victor
“I turn to dark clothes to express what I’m feeling at times and wear t-shirts with something I stand for or believe in.” The world of music and fashion has always co-existed and are codependent as both are influenced by the rapid changes happening in this progressive world. As one might say, they go hand-in-hand with each other.
As the music industry is evolving, fashion trends are also catching up as music from all genres has inspired different trends of fashion. Musicians’ personal styles, influenced by their musical genres, have moved from the stage to clothing stores and one of those genres has been Grunge. Grunge, originally meaning ‘dirt’ or ‘filth’, first came into the picture during the 90s when underground music from Seattle was getting a lot of attention. Initially termed as the ‘Seattle Sound’, Grunge music took the world by storm. A perfect mix of heavy metal, punk, and rock n roll, it was born out of Alternative Rock and was a result of evolution.
Grunge was considered darker than other sub-genres that were exploding during the 90s as it was powered by distress, sadness, self-expression, alienation, and disenchantment which is why it immediately resonated with the frustrated generation who fell victims to a failing economy. The music spoke to the distressed youth of the 90s and instantly connected with them. It was very influential making bands like Nirvana popular band and their dressing style, which gave push to ‘androgynous’ fashion.
Rijul Victor, a full-time musician and music producer, recalls his time as a teenager who was influenced by Grunge “Even if it was, it was very subconscious, when I was a teenager, it was being very directly influenced by it, wearing black nail paint, torn jeans, rocking some band t-shirts, We would tear or rip our t-shirts, it gave my parents a hard time to understand what was going on.” The fashion that came with it was not mainstream as it was about not making a statement but being comfortable in your skin. But, besides it being different, Grunge fashion was also about expression through clothing. The social momentum and the distress felt by the youth could be seen in their ‘non-fashion’ approach to clothing.
The appearance was a result of not having a care in the world and was not an act of rebellion, making clothing articles like oversized cardigans, logo t-shirts, flannel shirts, ripped jeans, slip-dresses, accessories, fishnets, and messy hair the ‘go-to’ look. Grunge fashion was essentially a thoughtless, uncoordinated look but with an edge. It also promoted the DIY moment and thrift shopping due to the low-budget anti-materialist philosophy brought by the recession which made shopping at thrift stores very common and people who followed grunge believed in secondhand comfort clothing that one could buy from the store down the street. Grunge, back then, was less of a fashion choice and more of a utilitarian necessity.
Even today, grunge has managed to revive itself and impact streetwear. Clothing holds the power to bring people together, be it people who listen to the same music or shop from the same brand. It starts conversations and also surpasses sex, race, religion, and political preference to connect people from different backgrounds on a relatable level.
Punk is not Grunge: A Dilemma of Dialects
Defining the fine line between the greatest music eras with Indian Fashion Designer Diksha Khanna
As the world progresses, so does the music. Not confined to just its form or instrumentation, genres also define themselves by the period they were introduced. Similarly Punk, a genre that was originally called ‘Punk Rock’ by the garage musicians of the 60s, integrated itself into an international movement. A music form that was considered raw, crude and political, led bands like The Stooges to break the rules and throw light on all the wrongs in the world.
Expanding the definitions of music were The Velvet Underground, an American rock band managed by Andy Warhol in the 60s, who were producing the type of music one would call ‘noise’. Punk Rock, even though it came into the scene in the mid-70s, actually exploded later in the 70s as a musical force. While punk rock was creating its own identity in the US, London was undergoing its separate creation of the genre as well. With its roots deep within the economic and social strife of Britain, Punk rock emerged as a way to rebel for the youth who were facing unemployment due to the country’s failing economy.
Due to its massive following and emerging popularity, it began to split into numerous sub-genres, giving rise to the DIY movement where everyone was creating their sounds and forming separate communities, also becoming an archetype of teen rebellion and alienation. Along with this musical movement came punk fashion, defined by provocation and considered as anti-fashion, it was about making a statement. Imposing ‘No Future’ as their new slogan, the youth wanted to free themselves from society and reject what is offered.
This social momentum was reflected in the fashion of the 70s as well when Fashion Designer Vivienne Westwood along with Sid Vicious from the Sex Pistols, opened “Sex”, a clothing store in London where rejection and rebellion were the keywords for the silhouette. Punk fashion was a celebration of self- destruction with ripped or torn t-shirts and fishnet stockings to symbolise anger, turning into a movement that was not confined to just music or fashion but was also political with its ideologies and aesthetic.
As punk was fading away, Grunge was exploding. Emerging from Seattle and sometimes referred to as the ‘Seattle Sound’, it was making its own place in the music world. Even though considered as a natural evolution of punk, Grunge was not exactly a result of Punk but actually Alternative Rock, with different ideologies and music styles. Grunge wasn’t as politically motivated as Punk but the lyrical content was somewhat similar. The music was about heavy drumming, dirty guitar riffs, and lots of screaming. Gaining its popularity rather quickly, Grunge connected with the youth who were facing a similar situation as the punk rock generation. Tired of alienation and filled with angst, the teen of the 90s looked up to Nirvana, who were loved by everyone for their honest, sometimes meaningless, lyrics.
Grunge music was about not being mainstream and so was the Fashion that emerged from it. Unlike Punk, Grunge Fashion was not about making a statement. The appearance was a result of not having a care in the world and was not an act of rebellion, making clothing articles like oversized cardigans, logo t-shirts, flannel shirts, ripped jeans, and messy hair the ‘go-to’ look. Even though Grunge fashion was androgynous, the feminine grunge look was also popularised, thanks to Courtney Love, wife to Cobain, through slip dresses, accessories, messy hair, and dark makeup, often termed as ‘neglected glamour’.
Grunge Fashion was not just limited to an unkempt approach but also opened doors for high fashion in the future. It not only popularised being comfortable but also the concept of vintage clothing, now termed as ‘thrifting’. “I am a big fan of agender clothing. Comfort supersedes style always!”, expressed Diksha Khanna, 38, an Indian Fashion Designer who runs her own Pret womenswear label.
After the suicide of Kurt Cobain in 1994, Grunge struggled to stay relevant and eventually faded away towards the end of the 90s, just like Punk Rock. But to the contrary, it did not put an end to the grunge movement, instead it revived itself, also influencing the future of fashion and music. The music we listen to today and the trends we see are nothing
Oh, So Grunge!
Breaking down the past, present, and future of the classic button-down with Aakarsh Rao
A trend that never leaves and is the fall season staple, the Flannel shirt. Many fashion trends have emerged and left but this one is here to stay. It dates back to the 80s and has been a core aesthetic ever since. From high- fashion brands like Burberry to Gucci, we saw many plaid button-downs especially Alessandro Michele’s work that showcased oversized, laid-back informality like Grunge did. While flannels might have been popularised by the Grunge scene, it still has managed to stay relevant. We see celebrities like Brad Pitt rocking shaggy blonde hair and flannel shirt layered over a white top, channeling his inner Kurt Cobain and sending the internet into a frenzy. Indian celebrities like Varun Dhawan were also seen following the classic flannel trend last month ahead of his wedding.
Aakarsh Rao, 24, an Environmental Lawyer, recalls his first encounter with his first flannel, “I received my first flannel as a gift and because I liked the design and the comfort it offered so much that it turned into my go-to choice of clothing”. He also talked about how it is the “first item he buys when he is out shopping” and that he rocks a flannel “at least twice a week”. The shirt itself was considered an icon of the fashion industry and now has become an everyday wardrobe staple, representing both traditional heritage and counterculture rebellion.
Diving into its history, flannel was invented back in the 16th century in Wales for protection from the crazy cold and drizzly winters. The fabric of the shirt was initially warmer and sturdier as it was an alternative to woollen garments. The shirt has traveled the world, from France to Germany to the United States throughout the 17th to 19th century. In the 20th century, it became synonymous with blue-collar workers and after the Great Depression, it was popularised by white-collar businessmen turning it into a working man’s shirt and a symbol of American hardworking ruggedness.
The flannel got a makeover due to pop-culture in the 1990s and especially after the inception of Grunge who wore it as a part of their trademarked low-key look. As Grunge was all about de-emphasising the silhouette and looking untidy. From Eddie Vedder to angsty teenage fans, it spread like wildfire into mainstream fashion, eventually making its way on the runway, becoming a fashion staple for the generation that was to come. It was worn oversized and unbuttoned over a band t-shirt or a long-sleeved t-shirt paired with ripped jeans and boots, breaking the hyper-masculine stereotypes.
2020 brought this grungy aesthetic back making people style the shirt in every way possible, from a shacket to an over-shirt. We tend to look at the past for comfort during a time like this and this specific wardrobe item has gone through so many iterations in its lifetime, gaining different meanings and versatility to itself. It has become an underestimated Work from Home attire as it has blurred the line between work and leisure and then there’s always the cool side to it as a flannel shirt gets better and softer over time.
Today, the classic button-down has become universal and has been personalised not just by celebrities but by our parents as well, honestly, any who is looking for sartorial inspiration. Explore and experience the comfort it offers and make it your wardrobe staple. If you’re ready to embrace the grunge trend and add a little edge to your closet. It’s safe to say that the flannel isn’t going anywhere anytime soon, so don’t throw yours out.
Fashion Today: In Conversation with Diksha Khanna and Jenjum Gadi
Understanding the influence of music on fashion and its relevance today
Since the inception of Grunge in the 1990s, it has evolved even after being feared to have died towards the end of the 90s. Initially described as ‘sludge, grime, crud’ by Jonathan Poneman of Sub Pop record label, it encapsulated not only the sounds of bands like Mudhoney, Soundgarden, and Nirvana but their unwashed, grungy look as well. The fashion born out of Grunge wasn’t about rejection but about ignoring the ‘making a statement’ side of it. It caught everyone’s eye after the 1993 Marc Jacobs Perry Ellis collection where he reworked the grunge staples, ironically, receiving backlash for the same.
Grunge today is very different from what it was seen as in the 90s. In conversation with Jenjum Gadi, we learned about his upbringing, his journey to the world of fashion, and the inspiration behind his collection while also getting bits of what music is to him. Belonging to the small town of Tirbin, Arunachal Pradesh, Gadi was a young boy full of hopes, dreams, and creativity who didn’t think what he’d become in the coming future.
The first-ever designer to represent his state, Gadi’s eponymous label is well known for its fresh and young designs that fuse tribal influences with contemporary menswear, highlighting his culture through motifs, art, and tribal colors to keep the ethos alive. He recalls flipping through the pages of Femina, his only window into the world of fashion, and that even though he was a creative being he never pictured himself as a designer. He portrays his identity as “who I am” and “whatever I feel or get inspired by, is the reflection of my collection.” Keeping working professionals as his target audience, Gadi shares his inspiration behind his work, “All my collections are a portrayal of my own experiences and feelings that I go through while working on that particular collection, I like going with my instincts.” He further adds “I generally wear comfortable clothing myself so that I can work comfortably all day long.”
Talking about Music being an escape, Gadi states that “Music for me is healing and sometimes an escape from the world to a place with no worries.” He further adds that “The idea of being free drew me towards music, specifically soft music.” Being a caterer to the young audience himself, Gadi believes that “Grunge fashion is all about worrying less and wearing whatever you want, along with heavy layering loose silhouette clothing, it’s about creating your style where nothing is wrong or right”.
On asking about the relevance of grunge today, he responded “Even today, grunge has a huge impact on streetwear and the way young people dress. Grunge staples like flannel shirts, ripped jeans, vintage oversized clothing have always been in trend and can be seen everywhere.” Gadi recently showcased his spring/ summer 2020 menswear collection at Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, giving a very rock n roll vibe with all-black ensembles and heavy embellishments with few more androgynous pieces, breaking the stereotype for menswear. Jenjum Gadi Designs is known for its unisex layered kurtas, bandis, and sherwanis that often have an unusual twist within them. Made from 60 percent handloom fabrics, Jenjum Gadi collections are all about versatility and androgyny. Retailed from ₹9,000 to ₹50,000, these clothing articles are the perfect fit if you’re looking for a middle-ground for streetwear infused with Indian festive wear.
Similarly, Diksha Khanna, a designer true to her roots recalls how her fascination with fashion got her where she is today, “I was fascinated with textiles from a very young age. I remember being mesmerized and spending countless hours soaking in colors and feeling different textures in my uncle’s stockroom who ran a textile business with my grandfather in Almora, Uttarakhand. That was when I knew I wanted to work in fashion.” She also recalls her working experience with Wendell Rodricks before debuting at fashion week and starting her label, “He was my greatest mentor”, she states.
What makes Khanna’s work unique is her use of scrap fabric that is directly sourced from the factories, also supporting weavers and local artisans, she further added “We produce on a small scale to minimize wastage and our denim is fully distressed.” She portrays her label’s identity as “A label of women’s premium prêt in luxe Indian fabrics and fine craftsmanship. We create unique designs with a special focus on the details, quality, style, fit, and comfort, and our brand celebrates the coexistence of the organic with the industrial.”
On asking about the significance of music to her, she responded “Music to me is meditative, an escape from the madness around. It transports me to a different world.” She further added “This [Rock] music could bring up emotions that can lift spirits and capture warmth not known previously. I heard it for the first time at a college fest and was drawn towards it immediately.” She believes, “Grunge and Rock music made recyclable clothes fashionable and chic. It encouraged layering and combinations of patterns and textures also giving consumers the freedom to choose and not be defined by one look. It gave rise to self-expression through clothing.”
Being a fan of Rock, Khanna encourages agender clothing and thinks that “Rock music allowed us to express ourselves without any apprehensions or external influence.” Khanna recently showcased her ‘Pine Breeze’ collection at Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week spring/summer 2020, a dive into the picturesque towns of Uttarakhand. Wrapped in denim and white, the line was dipped in comfortable silhouettes like kurtas, joggers, linen fringed sarees, hoodies, tie-dye skirts, and structured capes with playful sleeves styles. Inspired by nature itself, the collection contrasted embroidery styles with homegrown techniques of Shibori and Dip-dye to add a touch of drama. Label Diksha Khanna retails from ₹4,000 to ₹40,000 on her website and offline designer stores like Aza Fashion, giving a push to sustainable fashion.
While trends may change every day, drawing inspiration from music and culture will never get old. Music will continue to influence fashion and fashion will continue to impact future trends.
Second-hand Glamour: Thrift Shopping
Making the ultimate sustainable switch with shopaholics Jigyasa Sethi and Esha Sharma
The concept of vintage shopping or thrifting was widely popularised in the 90s, especially after the inception of Grunge where fashion was all about looking messy and comfortable. Thrifting ripped jeans and worn-out t-shirts were the trend that took the world by storm back then and for today, credits go to nostalgia for bringing second-hand clothing its much-needed attention and booming the thrift business. Nothing compares to finding a luxury brand item at a thrift store for more than half its actual price, for a shopaholic.
Initially, thrift shopping might have been the go-to thing for people in poverty or on tight budgets but the recent rise in sustainable thinking and tempting items at affordable rates has caused young people to thrift more and more. The idea of thrift shopping is to buy previously owned items and keep them in circulation for longer, also moving a step towards not only being eco-conscious but also economically friendly. It’s not always about the hunt for a good bargain but also about realising the importance of reusing and repurposing. Most fast fashion brands target Millennials and GenZ not realising that they are also the ones that are concerned over what the impact of buying new has on the environment, exactly why preloved clothing is liked more.
Plus, a tight budget will lead anyone to make a smart and cheaper choice. Donating clothes from your wardrobe might seem like an eco-friendly idea but it’s not as it doesn’t change the addiction to shop and gives a false sense of guiltlessness as we trick ourselves into thinking that we can shop our way out over and over again by donating frequently.
Thrifting transformed itself from benefiting people in the struggling economy to becoming a quirky trend. Trends like chunky sweaters, high- waisted jeans, denim jackets are all making a comeback, trends that were once popular in the 1960-90s. Sarojini Nagar, New Delhi has been the hub for cheap but trendy clothing. You can find anything and everything there below ₹500. An entire market area dedicated to rejected brand items and thrifted clothes is a place that’s never not crowded.
The only drawback and rarely a plus is that such places lack options when it comes to sizes. “I feel I get more options at a hub like Sarojini in terms of variety which is something fast fashion brands lack and they also sell at a much higher price. I prefer offline shopping and I also up-cycle my clothes so I would say I have become a part of this chain where buying responsibly should be the only option,” stated Jigyasa Sethi, 21, a student of fashion based in Delhi who thrift shops twice a month.
The rapid change in trends, especially during the pandemic, led shoppers to turn to online platforms for shopping. This switch drew their attention to online thrift shopping, even though there’s nothing like having your treasure hunt adventure at a thrift store and picking the cutest fits for yourself. Many online stores, especially the Northeast Indian region of India saw a sudden rise in selling second-hand clothing.
Indians particularly don’t believe in this concept as they consider second-hand clothes are for poor people but the pandemic and the constant need to stay with the trend prompted their change in attitude. Instagram accounts now sell vintage, at times luxury, clothing online and to grab everyone’s attention they restrict their releases to specific days and time slots just like stores opening on certain days to attract more bargain hunters. Similarly, accounts like Assortments 2.0 and Folkpants have been able to gain lots of followers in the past year by selling authentic vintage items on their Instagram accounts.
These online stores are mainly based out of North-east India and usually sell authentic vintage items like t-shirts and branded bags, which one might not be able to find anywhere else, starting from ₹600 to ₹1000. “I prefer buying online because I enjoy finding vintage items like recently I purchased this original vintage Nirvana t-shirt and Iron Maiden 1993 concert t-shirt, and these items are not produced or sold anymore but as the 90s fashion is making a comeback, you’ll see more interesting articles around.” expressed Esha Sharma, 22, a media student and shopaholic, based out of Gujarat.
Fashion repeats itself just like history does, so that pair of jeans you thrifted today might be the hottest trend in a few years. Buying second-hand is not only good for you but also for the environment. Adopt this new hobby and switch to a guilt-free lifestyle.
Flair Unsmudged/ taking Fashion from the Streets to the Stores
How Grunge fashion became street friendly, tête-à-tête with Delhiwear and Gundi Studios
Grunge fashion is usually characterised by durable and timeless thrift store clothing, the silhouette is de-emphasised in a loose and androgynous way as this style is all about being comfortable. This fashion was popularised by the 90s Grunge bands like Soundgarden, Pearl Jam, and Nirvana. Grunge was about not being mainstream and so is street style fashion, an intersection between different trends that mainly portray individualism, setting themselves apart from what’s trending currently.
As Grunge music was exploding in the 90s, its fashion was absorbed by a large youth following and was co-opted by not only its music and fashion but through promotion by the media. It was ‘non-fashion as it stood for dressing down to its most extreme, pushing casualness and comfort dressing to a new level. It went on to have global implications for alternative bands due to its DIY approach. The style went from being popular in the streets of Seattle to spreading across the Atlantic and eventually, landing itself on the runway.
Its first-ever mention in the fashion industry was in the Women’s Wear Daily, a fashion-industry trade journal, in 1992 as ‘Three hot looks- Rave, Hip Hop, and Grunge - have hit the street and stores here, each spawned by the music that’s popular among the under-21 set and also managed to later appear on Vogue.’ Marc Jacobs was the first-ever designer to introduce Grunge on the runway with his Spring 1993 collection for Perry Ellis, followed by Calvin Klein, Christian Francis Roth, Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Anna Sui, and Versace, who adopted the vintage and layering elements of it but through luxury fabrics.
Similarly, street style fashion brands like Delhiwear and Gundi Studios infuse elements of Grunge, comfort, and loose silhouettes, with street style. On sitting down with Delhiwear, we learned that the brand ideology is “to prove that the silhouette isn’t necessarily for the occasional wear and can be moulded into regular wear through their clothing articles like Dukaan Pants (retailing between ₹3,000 to almost ₹4,899) and Vardo (retailing at ₹2,499). Their campaigns like Vardi, “promote real Indian streetwear items, a kurta, rather than making another graphic t-shirt as our flagship identity” and Lightweight 260 being “a continuation from our heavyweight series where we went from black and white colours to a colourful scheme. 260 being the GSM of the fabric for this collection, it added a story to it rather than just being a trend-based garment production.”
Gundi Studios, another street style brand based out of Brooklyn, focuses on smashing the patriarchy by soaking int0 the prejudices set by society but in a cool way. Born to fill the void between proper streetwear and Indian fashion, specifically for females, the brand set out to imbibe the street style vibe into their pieces like Suffragette Sweatshirt (retailing at ₹5,400) and Gundi Bomber Jacket (retailing at ₹12,000). Natasha Sumant, the mastermind behind Gundi Studios, let us in on her secret behind the amazing embellish work on the clothing articles, “We include traditional techniques that are dying, that don’t have a place in modern streetwear like Aari, Zari and Cut dana.” These techniques are generally used in making saris and burkas, the silhouettes that once personified themselves as the restriction to a woman’s freedom, proving how aptly it resonated with the brand’s name ‘Gundi Studios’.
Grunge opened the doors for recycled clothing by defining a new approach to dressing that included layering and juxtapositions of patterns and textures, giving the consumer the freedom to express themselves. As fashion trends from the 90s are making a comeback, they are ready to intertwine themselves with the contemporary styles of today’s world.
Diving In: Breaking down Nirvana's hit single 'Smells like Teen Spirit'
How a wall scribbling turned into an anthem for every generation
"It called to me on a level where it was soft, loud, and quiet all at the same time. Almost an anthem that you learn by heart.” A song that took the music world by storm and set the tone for what Grunge music was and would be. Igniting the Grunge craze where music was all about loud guitars, angst-filled lyrics, and heavy drumming, Nirvana redefined what ‘alternative’ meant.
‘Smells like Teen Spirit’ was one of the last songs to be recorded for Nirvana’s Nevermind album. A song just as unconventional as its name still holds the same influence as it did when it was released. Trying to rip off the Pixies to ‘write the ultimate pop song’, Cobain talked about his relationship with drugs and coping. Initially considered as ‘ridiculous’ and ‘clichéd’ by its own members, the song managed to fall perfectly into pieces later on.
Diving into the inspiration, meaning, and the music video of this song, we learned that even though Cobain wrote the song to portray his disgust towards the mainstream and the generation’s apathy, most of the words don’t have any connection or meaning to them.
Described as “The mass mentality of conformity” by Krist Novoselic, bassist to Nirvana, the song came off as a mystery to most people. The title ‘Smells like Teen Spirit’ was born out of a phrase that was mistaken as a compliment. “Kurt Smells Like Teen Spirit”, a scribbling on Cobain’s bedroom wall by Bikini Kill vocalist Kathleen Hanna where she referred to ‘Teen Spirit’, a deodorant brand. Unaware about the brand, Cobain mistook the phrase as a compliment to his rebellious spirit, thus, using it as the title for the grunge anthem. Similarly, the line “Here we are now, entertain us” was a catchphrase used by Cobain regularly at parties to break the ice. The music video was a huge hit and drew inspiration from the 1979 movie Over the Edge and the song Rock and Roll High School by the Ramones. With the concept of ‘Pep Rally from Hell’, the video included students, cheerleaders, and janitors which were, yet again, recruited in a very unusual manner.
Flyers were handed out at The Roxy Theatre in Los Angeles where the band performed two days before the shoot, saying ‘Nirvana needs you to appear in their upcoming music video. You should be 18-25 years old and adopt a high school persona, i.e. preppy, punk, nerd, jock. Be prepared to stay for several hours. Come support Nirvana and have a great time.’ The bizarre climax towards the end was also unplanned, a result of frustrated fans who were fed up with the shoot. “The music video reflects the song perfectly, a school stadium where for five minutes the teenagers are not bound to anyone or any explanation and they are just expressing themselves.” The song set the foundation for the band’s overall success along with becoming an escape for young people who needed an outlet.
On asking about the lyrical content in Nirvana’s songs, Leslie Charles, bassist to Thermal and A Quarter, responded “Every grunge band had a different style of writing that made it uniquely theirs but Kurt Cobain stood out the most lyrically. His songs were abstract, weird, poetic and even funny and nonsensical at times, but it did have certain imagery to it which worked well with the music to create the Nirvana sound.”
Similarly, Saksham, 22, writer at InShorts with a keen interest in music, expressed “It was very different to what I had heard before. I was into heavy metal music before being introduced to grunge. The way this song was written was very different in the subject matter being talked about. This song felt very raw to me but in a nice way.” The only question left is, if it’s still relevant, and does it still connect with today’s youth? Does the song that was crowned as an anthem for the youth still holds its place as an escape? “The song, according to Kurt Cobain, is just poetry, connected with youth in the 90s due to the nature of rallies and protest. So to speak 90s fashion maybe be back in style but the radical and rebellious nature of the youth is back. Hence, yes the song works no matter what age or year.” stated Esha, 22, another music enthusiast.
The song had an unexpected success, landing itself many titles as one of The Songs That Shaped Rock and Roll, The 500 Greatest Songs of All Time, and in the Songs of the Century list. While the song may not be what Cobain imagined it to be, it did manage to become an anthem for the outcasts who connected and drew inspiration from a song with a silly name.
Reviving the 90s: In Conversation with Calcutta Grunge Exchange
Keeping the essence of Grunge alive with Kabyo Ghosh and Abhishek Chakraborty
As we move forward, trends that were once retro become stylish again. The 2010s are all about the 90s. Grunge is starting to see a comeback as many popular bands recently reunited and there are always the rockumentaries that revive and awaken the genres and their dedicated fans. The 2020 pandemic sent the entire world into a nostalgic bubble, pushing forward the old trends again.
Grunge was an idea, it represented individuality and social paranoia. With the lyrical content from the bands from the 90s, you can observe the individuality essence. Its musical side is influenced by punk rock and metal, it’s like an infusion of the two. Grunge music is not for everyone so not everyone can understand its influence. It is an idea with music and fashion as its subsets. Grunge has also been described as an emotion, it’s middle- class music not only about rebelling but personal struggles too. The music isn’t just about distortion or overdrive, it might be chaotic but there’s beyond that.
Grunge has managed to resurrect itself in India, thanks to the pandemic. The rise in social media and the need for nostalgia made many online platforms popular especially for the music industries hunting for new talent. The 2020 lockdown enabled platforms like Calcutta Grunge Exchange to revive Grunge through connecting fans from around the world. A small project commenced by three friends who were brought together by the music itself with the mindset to bring back Grunge or ‘make Grunge cool again’, Calcutta Grunge Exchange, a broadcasting and media production company that is “about true music and by musicians, for musicians.”
Kabyo Ghosh, 34, one of the founding members of CGE stated that “A punk or metalhead would write about burning down the system and destroying the government but a Grunge fan would probably write a song about it, something with a more personalised view on society and life itself.” He further added, “I have been attracted to the unconventional side of life my entire life. Be it music, films, or books, anything and everything unconventional and I believe the first two grunge songs I ever heard were Come As You Are by Nirvana and Man in the Box by Alice in Chains back when MTV used to play it.”
We got insights on how Calcutta Grunge Exchange came to life from just “being an unplugged concert in Calcutta back in 2019”. Ghosh, the vocalist of the band System Malfunction, wished to play music full time as a job instead of living the monotonous life. He described music as an escape in terms of “surreal fantasy”, it felt “very real” to him also adding that “it helps me retain my sanity, I would be incomplete without music.” He also shared the turning point for CGE, “It changed in April 2020 as Kurt Cobain (from Nirvana) and Layne Stanley (from Alice in Chains) had passed away in April, so we did a little online tribute where we asked people to send any Nirvana or Alice in Chains or any project they were a part of”. He recalled receiving a crazy amount of responses after that post, “tributes started pouring in and we were surprised with the response.”
It felt like a whirlwind as everyone from around the world was sending in entries, their original material to get featured on their page. “Grunge was never irrelevant, it was always there, maybe people were a little blind towards it”, he stated. Ghosh believes that “any and every form of music should have an individualistic approach. When you listen to any sort of music, you should feel it or else there is no point listening to it.” He further added, “There’s a difference between listening and perceiving music, you have to decide which one you want to do. There are times when you just want to shake a leg like you don’t even listen to music, it’s not meant to be listened to, just felt.”
We were later joined by Abhishek Chakraborty, another member of CGE who also plays in the band ‘Road to Renaissance’, where he talked about the unexpected responses the page received and the future it holds. “We realized we could’ve named it Global Grunge Exchange as we received entries from bands based in Russia, UK, Brazil, Australia and like all over the world, we feel proud and weird about it but the best part of it was that we got to listen to such amazing music from all over the planet.” The four of them have gone beyond the concept of Grunge as music, to them, it’s more of a tool for communication by starting their radio under ‘Grunge Radio 420 KHZ’, a live stream featuring the entries they receive from Grunge fans and ‘Grungecast’, a podcast with a series of episodes to appreciate grunge/punk/ alternative music from all over the world.
Talking about the fashion aspect of Grunge, Ghosh feels “it’s rebellious but cool at the same time, one should know how to carry it. Grunge isn’t exactly fashion per se, as you can be grunge even in your pajamas and shirt.” Grunge fashion is popularly known for being the opposite of dressing up, it’s about being ‘carefully uncareful’. It’s the kind of fashion where one can be just themselves, forget the norms of who is wearing what. It’s important to wear material that represents you be it unconventional as fashion is about self-expression.
Recently, Nirvana’s popular song ‘Something in the way’ was incorporated in the trailer for DCs ‘The Batman’ which is set to release in 2022, setting the entire tone of the movie and describing the emotion behind it to the viewers. While Grunge may not be able to recreate its exorbitant success from the 90s, it still might manage to see some signs of revival after all these years of silence.
The 27 Club: The Unfortunate Fates of the Beautifully Broken
Unveiling the mystery behind the untimely deaths of the 27 Club
The music industry is not only known for being a tool for escapism but also for popular untimely deaths. Stirring up conspiracy theories for years, these deaths are mostly linked to intoxication by drug overdose, while the remaining are linked to either dying under unknown circumstances or committing suicide. The suspicion around these deaths gave rise to, what we now know as, The 27 Club.
The term “27 Club” was invented to categorise this unsettling trend of famous people dying at this specific age. The rising curiosity led to carrying out research, with the findings stating that it’s nothing but a myth as the 56 has the highest death rate. The 27 Club gained prominence when Nirvana’s Kurt Cobain died in 1994, the same age as the other icons, including Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, and Jim Morrison who died in the 1970s and it later resurfaced on the death of Amy Winehouse in 2011. Though it’s nothing but a series of tragic coincidences what’s surprising is that this club has been largely connected to musicians.
People, especially fans of these musicians have glamorised the idea of dying young, that you would leave a mark behind and become a legend. It has also been referenced many times by popular artists in the current music scene, like Rex Orange County’s song “Uno” where he ends the song with “And every now and then I think about the fact that I’d become a legend if I died at 27”, romanticising the idea of joining the club whereas Halsey, in her song “Colors”, talks about hope with her lyrics “I hope you make it to the day you’re 28 years old”.
The so-called ‘curse’ of The 27 clubs was predicated upon one of its earliest members, Robert Johnson, the root of blues and rock n roll music. Legend says he made a deal with the devil, the reason being the constant mention of Satan in his music and further making blues widely popular again. This myth about selling the soul to the devil to become famous has given rise to conspiracy theorists on the internet. The age of Youtube made it even more accessible for people to dive into such tragedies and discuss the conspiracy theories that come with them.
Among all the conspiracy theories, the most popular has been that by joining this club, musicians are immortalised and martyred by the one thing they love, music. It was also believed that Cobain intentionally timed his death so he could join the 27 Club, even though he suffered from depression, drug addiction and tried taking his own life many times before.
Cobain was found dead in his Seattle home by a self-inflicted shotgun wound to his head in 1994, leaving the world shook and later becoming one of the most discussed deaths of the 90s. His mother, Wendy O’Connor said after his death, “Now he’s gone and joined that stupid club, I told him not to join that stupid club.”, dominating the headlines and deepening the brooding mythology, even though it was later found out that she was referring to the family’s long history of mental illness, including two great-uncles and a great- grandfather who took their own lives. The entire existence of the 27 Club indicates their tragic history of struggles with addiction. Recent celebrity deaths that were close to the age of 27 like Heath Ledger, Mac Miller and Avicii, raised eyebrows as they were linked to death by intoxication as well.
This topic throws light on the negative impact of drug abuse. Becoming famous has its perks but also gives a push to a lot of underlying issues one might be facing, for which people turn to other means of de-stressing. While some might believe that these drugs are recreational and help them with opening up their creative block or imagination, anything that becomes an addiction leads to a dark end. Such abuse may lead to isolation and at times, an unfortunate fate with leaving loved ones behind. Each of these individuals belonging to the 27 Club managed to leave a mark on this world but also left behind grieving lovers and family members. There’s always time to reach out and help the ones in need before it’s too late.
Generation-Z and Music: The Era of the Nostalgic Lamestains
Dealing with retromania and the end of Nirvana with Grunge Fan Sumit Arya
2020 was the year of dwelling into the past, be it for music or fashion. A Lot of the trends saw a comeback on the runway, so did the music in our playlists. This nostalgia isn’t just restricted to a specific trend or genre and with the rise of pop culture, genres like punk rock and grunge might seem like ghosts from the past, instead of the kind of music one reminisces upon.
Pop culture has been called out many times for its addiction with the past, also why the term ‘retromania’ came into the picture. But it’s the era of reviving the 90s and Gen-Z is all about reviving the dead aesthetic of past decades but also moving the culture forward. Artists around the world are standing up for all the wrongs the generation is facing, creating a very deja vu situation for the youth of the 90s just like Generation X which was probably the last one with any innocence as that era was about rebellion and with that rebellion came a genuine annoyance with the status quo.
The past year saw a lot of untimely deaths which gave a push to a dark memory that was buried deep in the hearts and minds of GenX, the unfortunate passing of their unspoken leader, Kurt Cobain. Frontman to the popular Grunge band Nirvana, he took his own life in 1994 by shooting himself in the head after struggling with fame and substance abuse for a long time. Sending shockwaves around the world, his untimely death managed to baffle and devastate an entire generation.
Although, there were theories that it was not a suicide but murder, the suicide letter Cobain left behind proves it wrong. His letter was read out by his wife, Courtney Love, in front of thousands of people who attended his service and it mentioned his chronic stomach condition instead of complaints about AIDS or divorce or homelessness, things that were said to be preoccupying that generation. He further talked about his hate towards humans in general and how he feels sorry for them along with mentioning how he doesn’t want his daughter to become miserable like him.
“I remember reading about it in the newspaper, I was disheartened. He was someone I looked up to. I remember listening to his suicide letter which was read out on one of the radio stations, it all felt so wrong.” recalls Sumit Arya, 30, a working professional and music enthusiast based out of Uttarakhand who witnessed Cobain’s death like many other teens. “All I could think was, 20-somethings are not supposed to die this young”, he added further, commenting on how much of a shock it was for the world.
This year would mark 27 years since Cobain’s death, a dark day in the history of music, and a reminder to the people who were affected by it. It also throws light on the topics of mental health and addiction, a very important discussion we all had in the past year. A statistical study shows that three in every 10 people were impacted by Nirvana’s music and believe that it has grown stronger than when he was still alive.
Diving into the unusual life of Kurt Cobain with music enthusiast Ujjaini Dutta
After 21 years of Kurt Cobain’s death, many articles, biographies, and films have been released to understand the sole reason behind his choice to end his life. With a compilation of home videos, personal recordings, journal entries, notebook scribblings, and drawings with tiny bits from his concerts and interviews, Brett Morgen brought Cobain back to life. A product of eight years of production, the documentary, premiered at the 2015 Sundance Film Festival, feels like a complete package of intimate, emotional, and personal moments while also giving us a true peek into the superstar’s life.
A fully-authorised documentary entirely made out of Cobain’s archives, Montage of Heck walks us through his troubled life as a teen in Aberdeen, Washington to his journey to fame as frontman to Grunge band Nirvana, up to his death in 1994. The film has beautifully brought Cobain’s drawings to life through animation along with sound collages composed by him. It also features interviews with his parents, sister, friends, and wife, Courtney Love with short videos of his daughter Frances Bean Cobain as a child. It conveys that Morgen chose a multi-layered approach varying between home videos to animated recreations of Cobain’s recordings, fitting tonally with Nirvana.
The film is uncomfortably raw and true to its roots, giving unprecedented access to the not-so-normal life that Cobain lived. It’s almost like Morgen intentionally chose the ‘Endless, Nameless’ route instead of creating a ‘Smells like Teen Spirit’ version of a rock documentary. It feels like the viewer was a part of his life as we get to hear the music that Cobain would later write and release while also watching home videos of him as a young boy.
The life of Cobain is well portrayed: the hypersensitive, talented child from a broken home who chose music as an escape from reality, pouring out his pain into scribblings and drawings. A constant narration, taped by Cobain himself, plays in the background while we see his life before fame through a very mesmerizing animation sequence. It walks us through his childhood, his struggles with facing rejection from both his parents after their divorce, his need to build a stable home and family, his growing love for punk rock which later became his outlet for pain, to his journey from wanting to start a band, rising to stardom and eventually his struggles with the fallout.
It also focuses on the dark side of Cobain as a teen who was constantly ridiculed and rejected to the point where he tried taking his own life many times but also later found drugs as a way out. What made this documentary different was that Morgen utilized Nirvana, or for that matter Cobain’s music, the right way. You will get to hear a certain version of ‘All Apologies’ which almost sounds like it’s coming from a child’s music box, portraying that the melody was something Cobain had stuck in his head from the beginning. A rollercoaster of emotions, as one would call it, has been incorporated in the film, especially when it focuses on Cobain’s emotional abuse as a child, where morgen discusses “The sad part of the whole thing is that Kurt just really wanted to be with his mom” and then the shot cuts to the opening lines of ‘Something in the Way’, again portraying his pain from the rejection he felt.
The second half of the movie focuses on his issues with stardom, his relationship with his wife, Courtney Love, his struggle with substance abuse and becoming the unspoken leader for the generation. Even the most commonly discussed topics about Cobain seem different in the film. You also get a sneak peek of the dynamic energy he shared with his wife and his daughter. The careful usage of certain songs, certain videos, and moments are a result of the intense research that went in while compiling the documentary, creating the perfect balance between the filmmaking and the content.
The film also talks about Nirvana’s successful album, 1991’s Nevermind but also intentionally does not focus on it for long, as Nirvana was much more than just a Grunge band with a music- chart topping album. It’s also a perfect ensemble of Cobain as a relentless yet self-aware and self-critical being who heavily disliked criticism and shame. What the viewer gets to see is a musician who isn’t in the process of growing but is a fully-formed writer and singer. As mentioned before, the film does talk about his struggle with drug abuse, especially after the birth of his daughter. Cobain who feared losing his daughter, specifically after the interview that revealed Love’s drug usage during pregnancy which resulted in the removal of their daughter for four weeks, chose to stop using but his withdrawal made him sick and his sudden bounce back turned into an overdose for which he was admitted to the hospital and on being released he returned to Seattle, where soon after he was found dead.
The film does not talk about his untimely death as it only focused on his journey from being a troubled child to a troubled man but at the end, the shot cuts to black with a title card stating “One month after returning from Rome, Kurt Cobain took his own life. He was 27 years old” and the credits start rolling in.
“I was amazed with the way they used his old drawings and scribbling, how they brought them to life, how the director literally made a montage out of his home videos and how his life before Nirvana was portrayed through animation. I really felt connected, as if I was there through all of that. It’s definitely something I haven’t seen before in a documentary.” commented Ujjaini Dutta, a student of media and film enthusiast. The film celebrated Cobain’s life, showing the viewer the ups and downs that made him the man he was, also why the focus is not shifted to his death.
The cinematography was as perfect as it could be with the usage of certain footage and the incorporation of specific songs, making the film stand out from the rest of the documentaries and a definite must- watch for music and movie enthusiasts. Kurt may not be with us now but his legacy lives on forever through his music.
Rebel with a Cause: Music, Protests and the Government
Bringing the much-needed change through music with Student Activist Ruchika Khawadiya
Labelling people or a specific group has been around for ages and is mainly been allotted to people who go against the grain to bring much-needed change. Without rebels, all there left would be a static society. People who were done with the monotony and stagnancy the society had to offer made sure to pave their path to break that chain. These people were also the ones who were heavily influenced by music, especially during the 90s.
One of the most influencing genres, in terms of spreading a social message and rebelling, was Grunge. It not only changed the music scene but was also felt in fashion, movies, literature, and politics. An alternative revolution of the 90s was a call to raise awareness of equality and human rights. It was also one of the first genres ever that brought up the need to discuss mental health through its lyrical content.
The music focused on personal struggles, alienation, and dealing with certain disorders. Nirvana’s ‘Lithium’ indirectly talks about the drug itself that’s mainly prescribed to treat Bipolar disorder which their frontman was dealing with. As expressed by Nirvana’s bassist Krist Novoselic, “Popular music and politics are the same as people look for the meaning of both, not realising that both develop cynically.”
It’s a very natural cycle as the people get cynical as soon as the music gets boring or the economy starts falling apart because of the government. Campaigning and activism have been the tools for bringing change and when it comes to music, bands use their popularity to support and promote what they believe in, hoping that their influence would direct people towards autonomy. The most notable band known for their activism, especially topics targeted towards social and political issues, was Pearl Jam. Their unconventional ways of not wanting to make music videos, do interviews and practice traditional music made them stand out.
Eddie Vedder, vocalist to Pearl Jam is known for commenting on political issues, and their songs like ‘World Wide Suicide’ and ‘Bushleaguer’ critique the Bush administration. The band has also played a part in spreading awareness of Crohn’s disease, performing at benefit concerts, supporting the fight against world hunger, and donating to victims of natural disasters.
Nirvana’s ‘Rape Me’ also threw light on violence against women as well as Cobain’s experience with the crazy media where he felt exposed. The song is believed to have been written from the perspective of a victim replying to a rapist whereas ‘Polly’ was written from the perspective of the rapist. Talking about dissent, India has been struggling to keep its ‘Democracy’ in its place with its current political state.
The continuous protests across the country on important issues like citizenship, amendments to the farmer’s bill, and women’s safety has given rise to voicing one’s opinion and standing up for what’s right. “Protests have always been an integral part in the sense of a democratic voice for the nation. The protests that are happening in India right now, Shaheen Bagh was the critical point which kind of spread a domino effect all around India,” stated Ruchika Khawadiya, 23, a student at Indraprastha College for Women who was a part of the NRC CAA protests in Delhi.
The youth and women of our country have been applauded for standing up to fight for their rights, making them rebels. Protests are the first and last tool for the common man when he or she suffers inequality and further, protests may take different forms like art, fashion, and music.
Protest photographer Mohammad Danish, 25, recalls his experience at protests and praises the generation, “Youth with different backgrounds came forward to display their dissent in art forms. Photography is indeed one of them through which I’m already raising questions against several problems in the community.”
Recently at the Grammy 2021 red carpet event, famous YouTuber Lilly Singh was seen wearing a black face mask with a pro farmers message on it, “I stand with farmers”, justifying again that any and every platform can be used to stand up against the wrongs and spread the message.
As stated by Novoselic,“The time is right now that we can make a change and give people a voice in their government. We should be able to pick who our representatives are instead of them picking us.” Music genres like Grunge have been and always will be about expressing personal struggles and standing up to fight whenever and wherever needed.
